Lmaghrib b sac à dos : guide kamel dyal ssafar
Lmaghrib men ashel lboldan f l3alam bach tsafer b sac à dos w b budget sghir, w men ashel lboldan bach tkhesser fih ssafar dyalek. Train kayrbet lmodon lkbar, lcar kaywsel l koulchi tqriban, w namousiya f dortoir rkhess men ftour f Paris — w walakin bezzaf dyal nnas kayrej3o men b3d jouj simanat dazouhom f ttnaz3 w jjri w l3req f 7wayej machi homa hadouk. Hada howa lguide li ghadi y3tik sa7bek lmaghribi : triq, ttanaqol, lflous, chno tlbes, w chi fkhakh khassek t3refhom.
9bel ma tsafer : visa, flous, telephone
Visa. Nnas dyal l'Union européenne, l'Angleterre, Mirikan, Canada w bezzaf dyal lboldan lokhrin kaydkhlo l Maghrib bla visa 7tal 90 youm. Passeport khasso ykoun sali7 tol lmodda ; chouf l9a3ida dyal jinsiya dyalek 9bel ma t7jez.
Flous. L3omla hiya dirham (MAD) ; ta9riban 3echra drahem kadir euro wa7ed. Dirham 3omla mseddoda, ya3ni katakhdo mnin katwsel : guichets automatiques kaynin f koll mdina, w bureaux de change f l'aéroport w f lmdina l9dima kay3tiwk prix m39oul bla commission. 7ted les reçus dyal change ila bghiti traj3 drahem dyalek mnin tmchi. Lcash howa li kaymchi f souk, l9hawi sghar, taxi w ktar men les auberges : jib m3ak bilyat sghar w sarf.
Telephone. Puce dyal hna (Maroc Telecom, Orange wla inwi) m3a forfait internet ma kaybghi walou, katba3 f l'aéroport w f ay boutique dyal telephone b passeport. Internet kaychedd f tqriban koll mdina, w f bezzaf men triq dyal sse7ra.
Imta tsafer
Rbi3 (mars 7tal mai) w lkharif (septembre 7tal novembre) homa a7san wa9t l jawla kamla : nhar skhoun, lil bared chwiya, w lwidan khdrin f rbi3. Sif skhoun bezzaf f ddakhel w f sse7ra, walakin sa7il kaybqa mzyan. Ch-chta mo3tadila b nhar f sa7il w f Marrakech, walakin lil bared f koll blassa w l'Atlas lkbir kaytghatta b ttelj.
Chouf tawarikh dyal Ramadan, li kayt9addmo b 7wala 7dach l youm koll 3am. Ssafar f Ramadan mumkin w ghaliban ma kayttensach — lyali men b3d lftour homa a7ssen lyali f l3am — walakin bezzaf dyal l9hawi kaysdo b nhar w lwa9t kaytbeddel.
Triq dyal jouj simanat li kadkhdem
Jawla classique katbda men chmal l janoub, wla l3aks :
Tanja (nhar wla jouj) — fin kaywslo les ferries men Sbanya w fin kaybda train TGV. Chefchaouen (jouj iyam) — lmdina zar9a f jbal Rif, hadya, katdour fiha b rjlik, m3a randonnées sahlin l jame3 sbanyoli w chellalat Akchour. Fès (jouj l tlata iyam) — a9dam mdina w ktar wa7da katwddar ; khoud guide f nos nhar lowel. Merzouga (jouj iyam) — lkoutban dyal Erg Chebbi w lila f bivouac. Todra, Dadès w Aït Ben Haddou (jouj iyam) — lkhnadek, l9sbat, w blays dyal tsswir lfilmat. Marrakech (jouj l tlata iyam) — Jemaa el-Fna, souk, w l3ras. Essaouira (jouj iyam) — rri7, sour, w l7out lmchwi f lmersa : a7ssen blassa bach t7ebbes chwiya f lekher.
Ila 3ndek tlata iyam zayda, zid Imlil w l'Atlas lkbir men Marrakech. Toubkal, a3la 9emma f chmal Ifri9ya b 4167 metro, kaytl3o fih f jouj iyam men Imlil ; lbrrani khasso ykoun m3ah guide dyal jbal m3tamad, w sahl tl9ah f ddouwar.
Kifach tt7errek
Train. ONCF howa a7ssen 7el l rra7a : Al Boraq kayrbet Tanja b Rbat w Kazablanka, w train l3adi kaykemmel l Fès, Meknès w Marrakech. Deuxième classe n9iya w rkhissa ; les billets kayt9damo f l'application ONCF wla f lgare.
Lcar. Fin kaywa9ef train — Chefchaouen, Essaouira, sse7ra, lkhnadek — khoud CTM wla Supratours : m9adin, fihom climatisation, w t9der t7jez online. Khelles dak chwiya bach t7ett sac dyalek ta7t.
Taxi. Taxi sghir kaydour west lmdina : tlob compteur wla tfahem 3la ttaman 9bel ma tl3ab. Taxi kbir tomobil mchtarka bin lmodon, katmchi mnin katmla ; katkhelles 3la lblassa, w t9der tchri jouj blays bach tertah.
Circuit dyal sse7ra. Les circuits dyal tlata iyam men Marrakech l Merzouga homa ashel triqa bach tchouf sse7ra bla tomobil. Circuit rkhiss bezzaf ya3ni iyam twal f minibus ; 9aren chno dakhel (bivouac, l3cha, jmel) 9bel ma tkhelles.
Budget : ch7al kaykellef nhar b sse7
Routard m7essob kay3ich b 300 l 450 dirham f nhar ; b 7wala 600 dirham katrba7 rra7a. B ta9rib : namousiya f dortoir f riad-auberge 80 l 150 dirham m3a lftour, tajine wla couscous f restaurant cha3bi 40 l 70 dirham, atay b n3na3 10 l 15 dirham, w taxi sghir west lmdina 10 l 30 dirham. Lprix kaytl3o f Marrakech w f les restaurants li 3la sa7at lkbar : kol f zen9a li moraha.
Ttnaz3 3adi f souk, walakin machi f l7wanet li fihom prix mktoub, wla f supermarché, wla f transport. Bda b ta7t men dakchi li baghi tkhelles, b9a drif, w mchi bla 7chouma : hadi jouz men l3ba, machi 7egra.
Chno tlbes w chno tdi m3ak
Lmaghrib mrta7 f lmodon lkbar w f sa7il, w m7afed ktar f lmodon sghar w f lbadiya. Lebsa li katghetti lktaf w rkabi m7tarma f koll blassa, w f l7a9i9a hiya li katkhellik bared : 7wayej wase3in, khfaf w twal kay7miwk men chems ktar men débardeur.
Lassassi. Jouj wla tlata dyal 9amijat wase3in men lin wla 9oton, serwal khfif wla jupe twila, foulard kbir (3la lktaf f lmdina, 3la rras w lwjeh ded rmel f sse7ra, w ghta f car dyal lil), sabbat msdoud w mrta7 l zno9 dyal lmdina, w sandala wa7da. Zid chi 7aja skhouna — polaire wla trico — 7ta f sif : lil f sse7ra w f jbal kaybred dghya.
7wayej sghar li kay3awno. Ndader dyal chems, chapeau, crème solaire, gourde b filtre, lingettes, lampe frontale l bivouac, w cadenas sghir l casiers dyal l'auberge. Safer khfif : zno9 dyal lmdina dyy9in, fihom drouj bezzaf, w sac à dos a7ssen men valise dima.
Lamane w lfkhakh lm3roufin
Lmaghrib bled amen l nnas li kaysafro ; lmachakil l7a9i9iyin sghar. Les faux guides kaytb3ok f lmdina bla ma tsowlhom, w ghaliban kaygoulo « triq msdoda » wla blassa « men hna ». Goul « la, choukran » b drafa w b 9owwa w kemmel triqek b carte offline f telephone. Tlob guide officiel men l'auberge dyalek ila bghiti.
Tfahem 3la ttaman 9bel ay khedma — l7enna, tswira m3a 7ayawan, taxi bla compteur. Chrob lma dyal bouteille wla mfiltri. Les drones mamnou3in bla rokhsa w kayt7bsou f diwana : khlli dyalek f ddar. Lbnat li kaysafro bou7dhom ymken ysm3o kalam m3awed f chi blays ; lebsa m7tachma, lmchi b thi9a w ttjahol ghaliban kaysaliwh, w les auberges blassa mzyana bach tl9a m3a mn tsafer l sse7ra wla l jbal.
Chi kalimat kayfte7o lbiban
Lmgharba kaytkellmo b ddarija, b tamazight f bezzaf dyal lmanati9, w b lfransawiya tqriban f koll blassa ; nngliziya m3roufa 3and chabab w f blays siya7iya. Chi kalimat kaybeddlo koulchi : salam, choukran, la, choukran, bch7al ?, wakha. 9bel kas atay mnin y3tiwh lik : nadran ma ykoun ghir mcherob, howa bdya dyal hadra.
7tarem l'rythme dyal lblad — couscous dyal jem3a, l'adan, w lhdou2 f sa3at sskhana — w Lmaghrib ghadi y3tik ktar bezzaf men dakchi li kaykellfek. Li machi mouslimin ma y9droch ydkhlo l ktar men jjwame3, men ghir istitna2 kbir : jame3 L7assan Ttani f Kazablanka, me7loul l zzowar f zyara m3a guide.